Gondor Armor

A bit of a different artwork here as it's fully physical and actually wearable ^^
I love this armor in particular, among all the amazing designs we've seen in the Lord of the Rings trilogy, that one caught my eye and at a quite young age (11). Since then, I tried to craft this armor several times, but never went this close to the original design. This is an ongoing side-project, that took me longer than Star Wars Redemption to get there at some point. Aside from making games, you can see a line in my resume about "crafting armors" that seems to come out of nowhere, haha. So here it is, one of my other solid passions. I started with cardboard+gaffer, now I'm using EVA foam + paints, so maybe one day I'll forge it in metal ?

I used 3dsmax for shaping the shoulderpads, instead of the traditional pepakura that is widely recommended/used in cosplay, just to test out if a game art tool could also do the job for simple pieces (using UVs + a video projector). And yes ! This worked like a charm :) But for other parts it's some try'n error, guess measurements using cardboards as temporary armor plates and to lay down things easily before going on EVA cuts.
To get that "roughness/metalness" on the armor, I proceed quite similarly as when I'm into 3DCoat : I use 2 layers of Flexipaint "silvergrey", then I bring some wetness with a sponge or a clothrag, and I polish/buff it with graphite powder (which I manually got simply by sanding a graphite bar that is normally used for sketch drawing ^^). Graphite polish is what brings you to roughness 0 and metal 1. Then you want to get a more convincing look to it, like having some dirt in caveats and variations of relfection/metalness. Super simple ! Paint it roughly with black matte acrylics using a dry brush or a clothrag, then "clean" it with some wet cloth and come back over some of the edges to bring back reflect/metal up to your likings :) I tend to imagine where the armor can get more damaged/rusted and put more dirt there and it's really that same logic I have when texturing in 3DCoat :)

as for SWR, I might add updates to this post whenever I upgrade the armor set, I constantly see things that could look (or feel) better, so stay tuned =)

Finished armor :) Not everything is perfect but it's so cool to wear it !

Finished armor :) Not everything is perfect but it's so cool to wear it !

Extracting the leg from my old version (and fixing some curves ;))

Extracting the leg from my old version (and fixing some curves ;))

Contact cement is cool, but I always like to use some kwik seal to make sure it's very solid. It's also more interesting to sand/sculpt :)

Contact cement is cool, but I always like to use some kwik seal to make sure it's very solid. It's also more interesting to sand/sculpt :)

To make these bas-reliefs, I cut through a thin layer of EVA foam, then glued parts using kwik seal paste as it allows more time before drying out than contact cement

To make these bas-reliefs, I cut through a thin layer of EVA foam, then glued parts using kwik seal paste as it allows more time before drying out than contact cement

mounted shoulderguards. Just to see if it looks cool ^^

mounted shoulderguards. Just to see if it looks cool ^^

To sew shield's parts (I wanted to have a cardboard inside to force its curvature and enhance its resistance), I used a contact cement, which needed to dry out first. The old armor piece test in the middle prevents parts from sticking together before that

To sew shield's parts (I wanted to have a cardboard inside to force its curvature and enhance its resistance), I used a contact cement, which needed to dry out first. The old armor piece test in the middle prevents parts from sticking together before that

These leather pieces are secure parts that reinforce the EVA foam over tension when I hold the shield. This armor is made with combat in mind, not only conventions (that's the way I always did them)

These leather pieces are secure parts that reinforce the EVA foam over tension when I hold the shield. This armor is made with combat in mind, not only conventions (that's the way I always did them)

To make a fake wood sculpt I wanted to follow an artistic pattern, so I just drew up a few lines to help me out =)

To make a fake wood sculpt I wanted to follow an artistic pattern, so I just drew up a few lines to help me out =)

Once sculpted, it really does a great job and felt alike sculpting wood in ZBrush :)

Once sculpted, it really does a great job and felt alike sculpting wood in ZBrush :)

Shield once painted, ready for the next part !

Shield once painted, ready for the next part !

Then, to give that shield a more grounded look : I destroyed my work ^^" This is a part I really love, it's like telling a story, but super fast. It takes a few minutes but gives such a believable result ! It's a really important part to me

Then, to give that shield a more grounded look : I destroyed my work ^^" This is a part I really love, it's like telling a story, but super fast. It takes a few minutes but gives such a believable result ! It's a really important part to me

In case you want the pattern, feel free to use it. Please note that it's a slightly different one than on the armor chest plate. The red lines are to be overlapped when you do the decal work ;)

In case you want the pattern, feel free to use it. Please note that it's a slightly different one than on the armor chest plate. The red lines are to be overlapped when you do the decal work ;)

metal painting (sucessful) test !

metal painting (sucessful) test !

Here's the recipe to get that metal surfacing. I made several tests before this one, which looks great and offers a lot of artistic control on the "roughness/metalness" degree. Something I'm quite familiar with when I texture in 3D-Coat, you know ;)

Here's the recipe to get that metal surfacing. I made several tests before this one, which looks great and offers a lot of artistic control on the "roughness/metalness" degree. Something I'm quite familiar with when I texture in 3D-Coat, you know ;)

Painting process : you need to avoid drying pieces on cardboard/paper. Plastic surfaces are great, since you won't scratch external material by mistake

Painting process : you need to avoid drying pieces on cardboard/paper. Plastic surfaces are great, since you won't scratch external material by mistake

To make the rivets, I added a little paste of kwik seal over chicago rivets. Theses were long enough to attach up to a total of 2cm of EVA foam, but they looked too much modern, that's why I added the kwik seal ^^

To make the rivets, I added a little paste of kwik seal over chicago rivets. Theses were long enough to attach up to a total of 2cm of EVA foam, but they looked too much modern, that's why I added the kwik seal ^^

Once dry, just sand them with a dremel. As if you were using the "Orb Flatten Edge Protect" in ZBrush (same feeling, same result ;)). Then you just have to paint them silver/gold depending on the rivet color and that's it !

Once dry, just sand them with a dremel. As if you were using the "Orb Flatten Edge Protect" in ZBrush (same feeling, same result ;)). Then you just have to paint them silver/gold depending on the rivet color and that's it !

This was the curious setup I used to polish my pieces. Just activate the dremel, then manipulate & polish rivets carefully :)

This was the curious setup I used to polish my pieces. Just activate the dremel, then manipulate & polish rivets carefully :)

Here's the leg chainmails before & after dirt pass

Here's the leg chainmails before & after dirt pass

The process is simple : brush dark, dirty-muddy colors all over the piece, while imagining it represents how the armor would've been affected in real conditions (so more near the feets, less going upleg)

The process is simple : brush dark, dirty-muddy colors all over the piece, while imagining it represents how the armor would've been affected in real conditions (so more near the feets, less going upleg)

Again, used kwik seal to fix missed parts. I really love this paste !

Again, used kwik seal to fix missed parts. I really love this paste !

Chainmail...yeah. I made it all by hand ^^" In aluminium though, so I could wear it without much compromise and it's also faster to bend/cut/assemble than stainless steel

Chainmail...yeah. I made it all by hand ^^" In aluminium though, so I could wear it without much compromise and it's also faster to bend/cut/assemble than stainless steel

once "done" :)

once "done" :)

but you feel it's not really well fitted ^^" All these rings I reused them to make the sleeves. It was a nice kickstart haha

but you feel it's not really well fitted ^^" All these rings I reused them to make the sleeves. It was a nice kickstart haha

this rotary cutter just saved my life ! It's so precise you can use it as a pen and draw your cuts with ease. Super nice to have when you need to cut these tiny little leaves

this rotary cutter just saved my life ! It's so precise you can use it as a pen and draw your cuts with ease. Super nice to have when you need to cut these tiny little leaves

Before and after graphite buff pass. This is what gives a metallic look, with deeper reflections ! You can simply use any graphite pen and reduce it to powder using sandpaper ;) Then buff with a towel, an old holed cloth will do fine !

Before and after graphite buff pass. This is what gives a metallic look, with deeper reflections ! You can simply use any graphite pen and reduce it to powder using sandpaper ;) Then buff with a towel, an old holed cloth will do fine !

Here are all parts once buffed, except the torso (which I kept for the very end haha ^^)

Here are all parts once buffed, except the torso (which I kept for the very end haha ^^)

Torso once buffed :) Looks super shiny !

Torso once buffed :) Looks super shiny !

And here's the final surface look : after buffing so it can shine, I apply a dark matte acrylic everywhere I want to bring some more roughness (typically caveats, but bringing some accidental areas is a big plus). If needed I can still buff it back again

And here's the final surface look : after buffing so it can shine, I apply a dark matte acrylic everywhere I want to bring some more roughness (typically caveats, but bringing some accidental areas is a big plus). If needed I can still buff it back again

I really love the effect it gives on the back. The "texture" is definitely interesting here !

I really love the effect it gives on the back. The "texture" is definitely interesting here !

Ow and I also cut/sewed my own coat ^^ Here you can also see how the back of the shield works, the long leather band helps me carrying it on my back. When you walk for long time it's really cool to have it :)

Ow and I also cut/sewed my own coat ^^ Here you can also see how the back of the shield works, the long leather band helps me carrying it on my back. When you walk for long time it's really cool to have it :)

Little comparison with my old armor. I made it like 15-20 years ago (and used/repaired her several times, hence the worn surfaces)

Little comparison with my old armor. I made it like 15-20 years ago (and used/repaired her several times, hence the worn surfaces)

Quite some changes on the tassets. More curved, less plates, and rivets <3

Quite some changes on the tassets. More curved, less plates, and rivets <3

Since I used fiberglass, I could make a nicer sword. Not perfect though, there's still lot of room for improvement of course, but it's a good start ! Before that, I used PVC tubes + heat iso foam, cardboard and gaffer ^^"

Since I used fiberglass, I could make a nicer sword. Not perfect though, there's still lot of room for improvement of course, but it's a good start ! Before that, I used PVC tubes + heat iso foam, cardboard and gaffer ^^"

For the old shield (right), I based it on BFME 1 back in time (yeah...this armor is that old). Lowpoly stuff with blurry textures, plus an unexperienced college mind ^^"

For the old shield (right), I based it on BFME 1 back in time (yeah...this armor is that old). Lowpoly stuff with blurry textures, plus an unexperienced college mind ^^"

I reworked the torso/shoulders in 2022 for an halloween event, yet it was made using cardboard &amp; gaffer, so it looked blocky as hell ^^" (I only knew that way of craft before)

I reworked the torso/shoulders in 2022 for an halloween event, yet it was made using cardboard & gaffer, so it looked blocky as hell ^^" (I only knew that way of craft before)

Last but not least : a pouch bag, to carry my gold pieces during conventions without altering the armor look ^^ I made it full leather, after briefly concepting it

Last but not least : a pouch bag, to carry my gold pieces during conventions without altering the armor look ^^ I made it full leather, after briefly concepting it

It's really quite simple, like UVs of a cube at some point

It's really quite simple, like UVs of a cube at some point

That internal thin leather bag acts as a safe compartiment so I'm sure nothing will ever fall out of my pouch =)

That internal thin leather bag acts as a safe compartiment so I'm sure nothing will ever fall out of my pouch =)

To finish the result, again : destroy it ^^ (sandpaper, any tool that can scratch, and mind those scratches of course. Worn it everywhere and it will look wrong)

To finish the result, again : destroy it ^^ (sandpaper, any tool that can scratch, and mind those scratches of course. Worn it everywhere and it will look wrong)

once finished =)

once finished =)